Ikat Fabrics of Orissa and Andhra Pradesh: Studies in Contemporary Textile
Crafts of India/Bijoy Chandra Mohanty. Reprint. Ahmedabad, Calico Museum of
Textiles, 2003, iv, 212 p., 175 plates, map, $195. ISBN 81-86980-17-2.
Ikat Fabrics of Orissa and Andhra Pradesh: Studies in Contemporary Textile
Crafts of India/Bijoy Chandra Mohanty. Reprint. Ahmedabad, Calico Museum of
Textiles, 2003, iv, 212 p., 175 plates, map, $195. ISBN 81-86980-17-2.
Contents: 1. Introduction. 2. Historical background. 3. Technology. 4. Comparison of ikat technique and fabrics. 5. Socio-economic condition of weavers. 6. Analysis of fabrics of Orissa pre-1973 reproduced without samples as in the first edition. 7. Analysis of fabrics of Orissa 1973-74 reproduced without samples as in the first edition. 8. Analysis of fabrics of Andhra Pradesh pre-1973 reproduced without samples as in the first edition. 9. Analysis of fabrics of Andhra Pradesh 1973-74 reproduced without samples as in the first edition. 10. Analysis of fabrics of Orissa reproduced by various weaving centres 1984-89. 11. Analysis of fabrics of Andhra Pradesh reproduced by various weaving centres 1984-89. 12. Observations on the analysis of old and contemporary fabrics. Summary. Appendices: i. Types of tie and dye fabrics produced in Orissa and Andhra Pradesh. ii. Names of places in Orissa in which tie and dye weaving is done in appreciable scale. iii. Names of places in Andhra Pradesh having tie and dye weavers. iv. Names of equipments used in Orissa and Andhra Pradesh. v. Institutions and individuals contacted in Orissa. vi. Institutions and individuals contacted in Andhra Pradesh. References and bibliography. Glossary.
From the preface: "The first study was undertaken in the years 1973 and 1974 and was published in "Ikat Fabrics of Orissa and Andhra Pradesh" in 1974. Since various developmental and social welfare projects were operating and interest in the knowledge on these fabrics was growing in India and abroad, it was felt necessary to undertake another study after ten years to indicate any change taking place in various aspects in the production of ikat fabrics of Orissa and Andhra Pradesh.
The study was undertaken in the years 1984 to 1989 for second edition. In order to enable the reader to be acquainted with the present position as compared to the position before, the entire text of the first edition is reproduced after being suitably rearranged and changes or otherwise have been given as an addendum. While the photographs of fabrics and their analysis in the first edition have been reproduced, the sample swatches have been eliminated. Instead, another new set of samples swatches with photographs and analysis have been added, in which, a few samples swatches are similar to the sample swatches in the first edition and indication of the same has been given in the analysis. The analysis of fabrics has been grouped for the convenience of the reader for pre-1973 period, that is, before the first study was undertaken, for the years 1973-1974 and for the years 1984 to 1989, the period of second study."