Natural Dyeing Processes of India

Contents: Preface. I. Introduction and historical note. II. Note on survey of information collected from various sources: 1. Dyeing of cotton material in vegetable and animal dyes. 2. Preparation for cloth dyeing. 3. Preparation for yarn dyeing. 4. Dyeing: Red; Yellow; Orange; Blue and blue-black; Purple, violet, crimson, lilac and lavender; Green; Khaki, grey, bronze, chocolate, brown, dark plum and shades of red; Brown; Black. 5. Dyeing of cotton material in mineral dyes: Red; Yellow; Orange. 6. Dyeing of woollen material in vegetable and animal dyes. 7. Preparation for dyeing and mordants. 8. Dyeing: Red; Yellow and orange; Blue; Brownish-red, purple, rose, lavender, lilac and violet; Green; Grey, khaki and brown; Black. 9. Dyeing of silk material in vegetable and animal dyes. 10. Preparations for dyeing: degumming, whitening and mordanting: Dyeing: Red; Yellow; Orange; Blue, purple and blue-black; Green; Brown and black.

III. Contemporary natural dyeing in different places: 1. Dyeing of cotton yarn in al in Kotpad (Orissa). Brief note on the botany and chemistry of al and al dyeing. 2. Dyeing of silk yarn in lac in Berhampur (Orissa). Brief note on the botany and chemistry of lac and lac dyeing. 3. Preparation of indigo dye in Andhra Pradesh. 4. Dyeing of cotton yarn in indigo in Uravakonda (Andhra Pradesh). 5. Brief note on the botany and chemistry of indigo and indigo dyeing. 6. Use of natural dyes in kalamkari in Machilipatnam and Sri Kalahasti (Andhra Pradesh). 7. Kalamkari work in Sikkinaikenpet (Tamilnadu). Brief note on the botany and chemistry of madder and madder dyeing. Brief note on the chemistry of mordant dyeing. 8. Dyeing of cotton yarn in kum in Imphal (Manipur). Brief note on the botany and chemistry of kum dye. 9. Dyeing in vegetable dyes in Nagaland. 10. Dyeing of woollen yarn in vegetable dyes in the Tibetan Refugees Self Help Centre, Darjeeling (West Bengal). 10. Dyeing of woollen yarn in vegetable dyes in the Government Institute of Cottage Industries, Gangtok (Sikkim). 11. Dyeing, printing and painting of cotton material by the old process using synthetic dyes, and a mixture of synthetic and natural dyes. Indigo dyeing in Ilkal, Guladgud and Banhati (Karnataka). 12. Dyeing in nir in Dhamadka (Gujarat). 13. Dyeing and printing in Ahmedabad (Gujarat). 14. Dyeing and printing in Bagru, Sanganer (Rajasthan) and Deesa (Gujarat). 15. Dyeing and printing in Bhairavgarh (Madhya Pradesh).

Appendices: 1. Details of an experimental vat with 100 gms. of natural Indigo from Patha Cuddapab, prepared/B.C. Mohanty. 2. Report on analysis of Til plant ash and mixed wood ash (collected from Kotpad) by the Central Laboratory, Calico Mills, Ahmedabad. 3. Fastness properties of certain samples: report on tests conducted by Ahmedabad Textile Industries Research Association. 4. Note on Morinda citrifolia by G. Watt, Vol. V, 1891. 5. Note on varieties of Rubia by G. Watt, Vol VI, Part I, 1892. 6. Note on Strobilanthes flaccidifolius by G. Watt, Vol. IV, Part III. 7. Botanical and local names of plants used for dyes and auxiliaries and plates for identification where available, compiled from various references. 8. Alphabetical list of local names with corresponding botanical names. 9. List of other natural dyestuff: extract from the list of Indian Natural Dyestuffs compiled from the preliminary list of specimens of products in the Indian Section, Imperial Institutes, London, by Perkin and Everest. 10. Extract from memorandum on dyes of Indian growth and production/L. Liotard. 11. Tables (Mira Roy) red, yellow, blue & black: dye producing substances. 12. Details as given in the Kbulasatul Mujareebat for dyeing cotton stuffs. Bibliography and sources of information included in the note on survey. Glossary. Index.

From the preface: "The first part of this book consists of a historical note and summary of information collected from various sources, a list of which is appended. The information includes the local names of the dyes, auxiliaries, shades of colours, etc., and their botanical names wherever indicated, besides the processes involved. It is observed that sometimes the same local name has been used in different places for different shades of colour and different local names have been used for the same shade of colour. These names have been listed alphabeticlly in the glossary. Besides, the quantities of ingredients, including water, used for dyeing are not very clear. However, the details of procedures used, though brief in many cases, are fairly clear. The survey note is arranged to deal separately with cotton, wool and silk dyeing. Vegetable and animal dyes have been taken together and mineral dyes separately, wherever they are used. Procedures of dyeing with some important dyes have been dealt with exclusively.

"The second part constitutes a study of the processes adopted in various places where dyeing with natural dyes is still practised commercially, although not on a large scale in all places. It is, however, impossible to include as well--in a reasonable time--the many small places where natural dyes may still be used. The botany of the plants and the chemistry of the dyes and reactions have been briefly indicated where possible and as far as known. In order to have an authentic and clear idea about the colours and their richness, some samples of yarn and fabric, collected from wherever the study was undertaken, have been presented.

"The appendices incorporate various explanatory notes and statements. In the botanical names, there has been some confusion about the species, particularly regarding the Rubia and Morinda species. This confusion and certain clarifications as indicated by George Watt, have been briefly reproduced (Appendices IV, V and VI). Some important old statements given by investigating scholars indicating the names of various plants and their uses in dyeing etc., have been reproduced (Appendices X, XI and XII). Besides, comprehensive details of most of the plants, compiled from the survey note, contemporary field study and books of references in botany have been given plant-wise and alphabetically, indicating their local names and the parts used for dyes, and as auxiliary etc. (Appendix VII and IX). An experiment conducted with most important dye from natural indigo, collected from the field of investigation, has been recorded in detail with specific quantities of ingredients, to help interested readers to revive natural indigo dyeing on a small scale (Appendix I). The report of the Ahmedabad Textile Industries Research Association on the fastness to washing and to light, of some of the samples collected from the field of investigation has been reproduced (Appendix III)."