Rajasthan Exploring Painted Shekhawati

Cycling into rarely visited northern Rajasthan, in tiny desert towns Ilay Cooper discovers impressive buildings,their walls covered with vibrant paintings. Fascinated, he settles nearby and, exploring, finds that the main painted towns lie in the defunct administrative district of Shekhawati. After ten years studying all aspects of the paintings, the Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage (INTACH) commissions him to document the phenomenon. A local teacher, Ravindra Sharma (Rabu), assists him; together they map the painted towns and, over two-and-a-half years, describe 2,260 buildings. They travel by motorbike and their work is punctuated by adventures. Research reveals the unpublished writings and drawings of Colonel Lockett and Lieutenant Boileau, who crossed Shekhawati in 1831. After completing their project, Ilay and Rabu follow Lockett and Boileau’s 180-year-old trail, recreating the past here and illuminating the present there of this fascinating landscape. Both men are depicted in contemporary murals. Their mission was to enquire into, and record the brigandry then affecting local trade. This led to the founding of a Shekhawati Brigade to suppress robbery and bring security to the local merchants. Peace and prosperity returned, creating ideal conditions for a display of conspicuous wealth. The merchants commissioned fine buildings and, as a final touch, their walls were painted. So a military mission led to an artistic one. (jacket)